Pagsanjan. Cavinti. Magdapio. No matter the name for the falls, the thrill is the same. Travelers from every corner of the country and beyond come to immerse themselves in its majesty.
“Travel is no longer a luxury, it’s a way of life,” says Ms. Maria Paz Alberto. Chairwoman of both the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) Philippines Chapter and Ark Travel Express Inc., Ms. Paz arranged a most eventful trip to the falls, and I had the delight of accompanying her on a journey I’ll never forget.
Shooting The Rapids
Arriving at midday, we boarded boats in groups of 2-3 people. Each one is manned by two bangkeros; one in front and the other in the rear.
The boats were tied to each other for the first stage of the trip. Only when we reached the rapids did the boatmen undo the knots. Individual maneuvers were crucial to a safe ride.
The canoes’ balance was delicate, but we never doubted we were in steady hands.
Deftly navigating the obstacles of the Pagsanjan river, the bangkeros coursed through the currents with their paddles, and often used their bare feet against the rocks to guide the sturdy fiberglass boats.
They knew the waters like the back of their hands.
Many splendid sights awaited us.
The sound of the occasional motorboat passed us by. Tilapia frolicked amongst the verdant plants and purple flowers that call the riverbanks home. Kids swam in the river around us, quick to offer high-fives. The sun shone through towering ancient cliffs that gave way to the skies above. And a pit stop near the end offered travelers refreshments.
We encountered several boats returning from the waterfall, with their passengers waving at us with hearty smiles on their faces. All these could not prepare us for the wonder of what was to come.
Into The Falls
At long last, we had arrived at the pinnacle of the tour – the brief but riveting raft ride to the renowned falls, with water falling down 91 meters to meet us.
A chilling force of nature, it was day and night from the sun’s warmth we had basked in for hours before it.
As we went underneath its thunderous roar, I covered an ear with one hand and recorded with the other. Like a few of our Ark Travel companions, I had bought a waterproof case at the front desk to keep my phone safe during the ride.
The water cascaded on us, a most breathtaking and refreshing storm that left us wanting more.
The devil’s cave was a brief respite before we returned through the falls. Operated by two bangkeros, the raft was buoyed by ropes to help keep it afloat under the weight of the water.
“Shooting the rapids was really exhilarating,” Ms. Paz said. Not her first rodeo; she told me the raft ride is even more fun during high tide.
Some of our group dove into the river afterwards for a refreshing dip.
On our way back, we were greeted by the annual Bangkero Festival’s parade.
A succession of floating platforms built on boats; the festival-goers were adorned with elaborate costumes and vibrant colors to celebrate those who risk themselves at the rapids and form the backbone of the community. (Contributed by By Vincent James)
A Pagsanjan Renaissance From PATA - Part II
by Vincent James
The bangkeros of Pagsanjan sport an unrivaled dedication to their craft. Their work is passed down through generations – all the adult men in their families partake, we learned from our two bangkero guides. Over 2000 of them are called on rotation, each seeing action every couple of weeks.
If there aren’t enough visitors, they only earn a few thousand pesos each month – far below the poverty threshold in Calabarzon, and plainly unacceptable for those who enable the enjoyment of so many. One of our guides turns to farming during his downtime.
The pandemic that shattered many hopes hit the ferrymen much harder. Their livelihoods depend on people's eagerness and ability to explore; and when travel dried up, so did their source of income.
But help was on the horizon.
In May of last year, as the 50th anniversary of Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) drew close, the Philippines Chapter prepared to celebrate. “When we were planning the fashion gala night where the industry icons and stakeholders had a chance to model their modern Filipiniana,“ Ms. Paz said, “I was asked who should be the beneficiary.”
“I thought of the Pagsanjan and Cavinti boatmen who lost so much during the lockdown.”
She and PATA launched the "PATA Gala – A Fashion Show with A Heart." Travel executives from all over the country gathered in Manila to champion causes, chief among them the rehabilitation of Pagsanjan back to its rightful place as one of the country's most-visited attractions.
“We asked some of the boatmen what they would prefer as means of support. They said school subsidy,” Ms. Paz recounts. This led to PATA funding scholarships for the children of the bangkeros.
Fast-forward back to 2024: at the shack near the waterfall where we stopped for drinks, we met the senior bangkero. He recognized Ms. Paz and expressed his gratitude; PATA’s heartwarming effort had benefited his grandchildren.
Travel in the Philippines has yet to return to pre-pandemic levels. But it's well on the way. After reaching rock bottom in 2021, we have seen formidable surges, and 2024 is shaping up to be one of the best years in Philippine travel history. Initiatives like PATA's go a long way towards jumpstarting recovery and building a brighter future for both the industry and the country. A rising tide indeed lifts all boats.
We raise our glasses to PATA for being there for a community in need, and to the bangkeros themselves who gave us the experience of a lifetime – as they do for tourists time and time again, at great risk, to provide for their families. It’s a potent reminder that tourism is nothing without the self-sacrifice of the people who make it possible.
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